Are you happy? You should be! Today Is National Gumbo Day, and honestly, I'm happy for any eatin' holiday and ready to celebrate at a moment's notice. No one knows where the hell gumbo first came from, but basically, it's a happy collision of Spanish, African, French and Caribbean influences - though for our purposes, let's just say that a Spanish person banged an African person who banged a French person, and so forth, with a lot of cooking and experimenting and flip-flopping and spooning in-between. You doubt this theory? Name me a professional chef who's not a complete hor. You can't, can't you? I rest my fanny. Food is usually Madame Fleurette's game - Peckerwood Cafe is her beat! -  and I don't want to bump up against that, but I don't think she'll mind if I share this dee-licious New York Times Seafood Gumbo recipe, which yours truly has tried and had much success with. And, yes, I've varied the ingredients each time I've ...